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The Art of Fine cuisine
Sea Food.
Brittany leads the world in terms of the freshness of its seafood. Ultra-fresh oysters come mainly from Cancale, Saint-Brieuc, or Morlaix on the channel coast. Atlantic oysters come from the Morbihan estuaries. Even if oysters tend to be associated with family celebrations, they do in fact get eaten all year round in Brittany. Flat oysters come from the southern coasts, and the savoury hollow oysters are equally delicious. Take your pick!
Like wine, Oysters are regulated in France by the Appellation Controlée system, depending on where they are grown. For example, the Paimpolaise oyster is quite fleshy, whereas the Morlaisienne has a more delicate texture. The hollow oyster from Cancale is less fleshy but has a unique saltiness. La fine de Clair oysters and la plate de Belon are both rather aristocratic oysters with a delicious nutty aftertaste – they both come from the south coast.
Brittany mussels are small in size but deliciously tasty. They come from practically every rock along the coast. That said, the picking of mussels is regulated and thus you should check with the local tourist office before you set out to harvest them. Generally wild mussels are actually less tasty than the farmed version, which are carefully harvested at exactly the right moment. You’ll find them in most restaurants, and on the local markets.
Lobsters, “araignées”, turtles, coquilles Saint-Jacques, shrimps, crayfish, etc… you’ll find them all on the market stalls in Brittany, from local fishermen. There is an increasing awareness of the finite resources the sea has to offer, and Brittany has implemented non-intensive fishing in most of its ports. All produce is totally fresh.
Local species of fish are a delicacy in Brittany, arriving each morning in the local ports, where the unloading of the boats is always worth watching. You can easily find the following fish in port markets: mackerel, sardine, tuna, sole, “rousette”, Lot, Bass, and “le Lieu”. Unsure how best to cook your fish? Just ask the fishermen. Trust me, they know.
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Farm Produce
Crepes (pancakes) are a typical Brittany speciality. Crepes de Froment from the west of the peninsular, and black flour galettes from upper Brittany, were both eaten by peasants in the last century, either with a slice of butter or simply an egg to accompany them. Old techniques are becoming more and more common with regard to flour production, and windmills are being restored all over the region. The recipe for happiness according to the traditional Breton is the following: Flour, salt, water, and elbow grease. Crepes are eaten today with eggs, cheese, sugar, and jam, to name but a few. You can invent your own combination – anything goes. All crepes taste better if you wash them down with a glass of local cider or better still “lait ribot” – slightly fermented milk. Try it.
Ham, sausage, paté… charcuterie is another traditional Brittany speciality. The best known is probably the Guéméné andouille, which comes from the Morbihan. Eat it in thin slices on a galette or buttered bread. Artichokes and cauliflower are local emblems and are cultivated inland where the soil is so rich. The area round Nantes is well known for its delicious carrots and asparagus.
Gastronomy in Brittany is simple because it comes from a rural area. For the same reason, it is totally fresh, and the locals are fiercely proud of that.
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