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Fougères
The defensive Marches de Bretagne have been very well preserved here at Fougeres. This fortified town guaranteed the independence of Brittany for several centuries. The enormous castle, surrounded by a high wall and 13 towers, with a central fortification, is the pride of the town. At the foot of the principal drawbridge are several divine old houses that surround a pretty little square. This is the ideal place to get an imposing view of the castle. Luckily, the site has been intelligently organised and restored, allowing the houses and castle to retain their character. But we’d be wrong to limit our visit simply to the castle, even if it alone merits a detour.
As the welcoming little roads climb through the town, you’ll arrive at the Saint-Leonard Church, right on top of the rocky outcrop which is the foundation of the town. Climb the bell tower, and admire the view of the valley. There is a pleasant public garden around the church, really lovely in the early morning. More wild, but lovely too, is the Fougères forest which welcomes walkers and historians alike, because it is full of standing stones (menhirs). Because it was for many centuries one of the doorways to Brittany, this town is a welcome introduction to the whole region. |
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The Fougère legend
Jean de Fougères married a local noble called Hughes de Lusignan, in the 13th century. He was a descendant of the fairy Mélusine. His famous grandmother followed his move to Fougères with keen interest.
She shut herself away every Saturday in one of the towers in Lusignan castle, hiding a terrible secret behind the heavy wooden door. One day her husband surprised her, and discovered what she was hiding. Once a week, while combing her unusually long hair, she metamorphosed… a snake’s tail replacing her legs.
So shocked was she, that she immediately leapt from the window, screaming mournfully, preferring to die than to confront her shame.
This legend of Mélusine, the snake-woman, provokes a strange fear and respect in the locals. She became the emblematic figure of the town. Everywhere you’ll see her image carved into stone or wood on the side of buildings, with melancholy eyes, combing her long hair.
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